A week in Istria: day by day itinerary

When I travel, plan my travels or just read about traveling, I like to browse trough the itineraries- usually, I don't stick to them blindly, but they are a nice well of inspiration and information. Given that I couldn't find many itineraries for travelers eager to explore our beautiful Istria, I made a little list myself, hoping that it could be useful to someone. At least to my friend Brandon, who is visiting this year and I can't wait to show him around. 

Day 1: Pula

Whether or not you decide to stay in Pula, it is the biggest Istrian city and an unmissable stop during your trip to Istria. Pula is mostly known for its Roman heritage: namely, one of the best preserved amphitheatres, called Arena, triumphal arch of the Sergi (the so-called "Golden Gate"), temple of Augusts etc. But it is also an industrial city, with a working shipyard, which can be quite a scene if you stroll the waterfront by night and the cranes light up (every hour on the hour). One of the highlights is the central Market (or Merkat as locals call it), which aside of the beautiful Austro-Hungarian building and a lovely chestnut allee in front of it, has an extraordinary abundance of fresh local produce. You can find lavender honey, tasty cheeses, wild mushrooms, asparagus, sweetest fruit (in the summer!), olive oil... And if you're feeling hungry after seeing all this, then I would strongly suggest you to have a lunch at Trattoria Vodnjanka. They serve simple Istrian dishes "nonna style" (as if they were cooked by Istrian grandma), with only local and high quality produce. In the evening, have a drink at the beautiful main square Forum in a bar called Cvajner, popular among locals and with a great selections of beer and schnaps. For tips how to make most of your stay in Pula, head here. 

Golden Gate in Pula during Visualia Festival

Day 2: Cape Kamenjak

Today is a day for relaxing, soaking up the fresh salty air, gaze at the sea, swim if the season is right, cycle or walk in the beatiful protected landscape of Cape Kamenjak. After all, you just travelled to Istria yesterday and already did a day of sightseeing in Pula, so why not give your self a little break? You can reach Cape Kamenjak in just a 15 minutes drive from Pula. If you choose to go within the borders of the park by car, you will have to pay the entrance fee (5 Euros) from May to October. If you choose to go by foot or by bycicle (which I recommend), then the entrance is free of charge. You can take the walking/cycling road that goes all around the peninsula, making breaks at whichever of the 30 bays you fancy. Stop for a drink in Safari Bar on the tip of the peninsula- it's a peculiar place that resembles a jungle with playground for kids and grownups (think human-size hamster wheel, giant swings, table tennis, steep wooden observatory...). After a day spent on the most beautiful coastline in Istria, endulge in a tasty dinner in Konoba Ancora in Premantura, a village that boarders the park. I usually enjoy pasta (try the raviolli!), fish dishes and desserts there, but they have some good meet meals as well, friendly staff and fair prices. And if you’re in the mood for gin tasting, you can do that too in Premantura! My husband and I are running here a small, sustainable Monachus Distillery, which produces gin inspired by the scents of the Istrian coast, and a couple of other distilled spirits that I have a hunch that gin enthusiast might appreciate. The products we use are mostly local, biological, foraged in Istria, or fair-trade sourced when coming abroad, and the packaging is plastic-free! To arrange a tasting, send us an email, and we’ll figure something out! :)

A photo diary from Cape Kamenjak, right this way. 

Cape Kamenjak in spring

Day 3: Rovinj

Rovinj is my favorite town in Istria, and not just because I used to spend my summer holidays there when I was a kid. It is a favorite tourist destination in Istria- narrow stone paved streets, laundry hanging between the houses, a bunch of chic restaurants, galleries and shops, colorful houses, lively fishing port, amazing view from the square in front of the cathedral on top of the city and the best Italian gelato in Istria, fairly defend its popularity. I usually take a walk on the waterfront, pass by the colorful port and head in the direction of main town beach (taking some photos along the way). When I reach the square in front of the St Euphemia cathedral, I usually spend some time there sitting on the wall, gazing at the sea and the islets of the Rovinj archipelago. If you feel adventureous, you can climbe the bell tower for a truly amazing view of the orange rooftops and the immense blue of the sea surrounding the peninsula of the old town. For a tasty dinner, I would suggest Restaurant Tipico and Konoba Veli Jože. Skip the dessert and take a walk to the Gelateria Italia, you won't regret it. A bit more on Rovinj, here. 

Sunset in Rovinj

Day 4: Fažana and Brijuni National park

Fažana is a charming little town near Pula (about 15 minutes drive), which also serves as a port for ships that take visitors to the Brijuni National Park. This National park is an archipelago of 14 islands and islets, known for its beauty but also as a residency of formal Yugoslav president- Tito, who introduced the exotic animals and subtropic plants to the largest, Veli Brijun island. You can definitely spend a day walking, cycling or driving little electric cars along its meadows and forests, or take an archaeological route exploring its Roman and Byzantine legacy. Finish the day with a walk along Fazana's waterfront and have a tasty burger in the beautiful garden of Arboretum Pub. 

Day 5: Grožnjan, Motovun and Buje

This would be one of my favorite days spent in Istria. Grožnjan, Motovun and Buje, all of them medieval hilltop towns, each of them charming in its own way. My personal favorite is Grožnjan, because of its cobbled streets filed with flowers, its greenery, its artsy vibe and beautiful vistas. It was brought back to life in the sixties, since the artists started gathering here and opening studios and galleries, and since the annual summer school for young musicians was established. As you hop from gallery to gallery, you can hear the music resonating through its narrow streets. Motovun is famous for its film festival (held in summer), and amazing views of the peaceful Mirna river valley. Buje may not be as romantic as Groznjan and Motovun, but it is still a charming hilltop town with beautiful main square and its peculiar church facade. For a better view of the Istrian countryside, climb the high bell tower, and then reward yourself with probably the most amazing meal of your Istrian trip. Konoba Malo Selo in Kaldanija near Buje serves the most amazing grilled steaks, truffle dishes and pies (you have to try the gibanica pie, made of walnuts, apples and fresh cheese!) in a cozy and relaxed atmoshpere. The owners (mother and daughter, the cook and the main waitress) are darlings. Enjoy!

I included these three towns in a post about the delights of Istrian countryside.

Streets of Grožnjan

Day 6: Poreč, Baredine cave and Lim fjord

Today is a day for savoring both culture and beautiful Istrian nature. Head to Poreč, a town located about 50 minutes drive from Pula. Poreč is home to one of the finest examples of early Byzantine art on the Mediterranean, the Euphrasian basilica. There you'll find golden mosaics adorning the apse and the triumphal arch, whose beauty can be compared to famous mosaics in the San Vitale church in Ravenna, Italy. The complex which consist of the basilica, a baptistery, a sacristy and a bell tower has made to the Unesco World Heritage list in 1997. 

After visiting the man made beauty of Euphrasiana, it's time to see some pure nature beauty near the city, the Baredine cave. It is well adapted to visitors who can take a tour down to its lowest chamber with a little underground lake, about 60 meters deep. The lake is home of the endemic species of aquatic salamander called olm or proteus, which can be found in the caves of Slovenia, Croatia and Bosnia. 

As the end of the day approaches, on your way back to Pula, stop at the Lim fjord, a 10 km long estuary of the river Pazinčica. Thanks to its combination of fresh and salty water, it is breeding ground for fish, as well as a grest spot to grow mussels. Most of the visitors come for fresh oysters and a swim in the clean waters of canal.

Some photos of Lim fjord (and another day trip tip), over here. 

Underground lake of Baredine cave near Poreč

Day 7: Medieval Bale, wine tasting in Višnjan, dinner at Banjole

As it can be observed, I am quite enthusiastic about picturesque Istrian medieval towns. So, pack your picnic bag and drive to the medieval town of Bale, situated between Pula and Rovinj. Get lost in its maze of cobbled streets and stone houses, wander at the Gothic-Renaissance palace of the Bembo family, and have a drink at the well-known artsy restaurant-bar called Kamene priče. In August, Last Minute Open Jazz Festival takes place on the romantic piazza in front of the Bembo palace, and is free of charge for all visitors. 

A trip to Istria wouldn't be complete without tasting some of the famous Istrian wines, namely Malvazija (white) and Teran (red). My suggestion would be to drive to Višnjan, a little hilltop town known for its Observatory, but also as a region of good wines. My favorite wine-maker is Poletti with its fragrant malvazija, but you can visit others as well, just be sure to announce your visit a day before.

Wine tasting at Poletti near Višnjan

After some seriously good wine tasting, and presumably loaded with a few bottles of wine, head to the Višnjan Observatory. It has become a favorite day trip (or evening-trip) spot of locals and tourists alike thanks to a couple of enthusiastic scientists who organize workshops for kids, nights under the skies and lectures on astronomy there. The building itself is beautiful, and so is a large meadow surrounding it. You can have a picnic there, or if the Observatory is open for visitors, engage in a communication with the astronomists, they always have something interesting to say!

Višnjan Observatory

As today is your last day in Istria, treat yourself with a dinner at the famous (well-deserved!) restaurant Batelina in Banjole, near Pula. You have to book in advance, as they only take reservations, and if you're visiting during summer season, call at least two weeks in advance to ensure a table. It will be well worth it. In any case, try everything of the starters they serve that day, as it will be the highlight of the dinner. Think fish pates, Istrian style sushi, crunchy fish chips, accommpanied with home made bread and excellent local wines. What you'll order after starters is up to you, just don't skip starters! 

Starters in Batelina

I hope you've had a lovely week in Istria and that by now, you have already decided to visit again. In the meantime, don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions regarding good places to eat, secret gems or lovely local places to stay! Have you ever been to Istria? Please share your thoughts if you have!

*P.S.- I do most of my travel writing on Substack now. If you’d like to receive weekly slow travel and slow food dispatches, please subscribe to The Mint Story Substack!

Anja

Photo diary: Cres

Last summer, or more exactly late summer, we managed to get away again for a few days to the beautiful island of Cres. There is something so calming and fulfilling there that only a few days can completely reset us and refill our batteries. We went camping again to the same camping place as the year before- when something is that good, why change it? The only change was our big new tent which made our stay a bit more comfortable, and a better camera to capture all that simple beauty around us. :) This time we had the luck of catching the most magical sunset from our camp in Osor, and although the photos are pretty nice, it was something special indeed in person. One part of our excitement with Cres is certainly the food- you can't get fresher, bigger or tastier shrimps that the ones caught between the island and Istrian peninsula; or if you're more into meat, famous Cres lamb is something not to miss. For shrimps, I warmly recommend Bistro Melin in the city of Cres, and for the lamb Konoba Bukaleta in the countryside, where you can also taste some exceptional local sweets! The beach beneath Lubenice was as beautiful as we left it the year before, only the sea was crispier and fresh September wind was kind of announcing that summer was almost over. I'm hoping to go back again this year, as few days on Cres have sort of become essential part of our summer. I decided that this was going to be a photo diary post so I'm leaving you to some bits and pieces we captured along the way.

The delights of Istrian countryside

Most of us travel to see new places, experience new things, taste new flavors, but at the same time, we often overlook the beautiful places and experiences just around the corner. Example, we travel pretty often to Italy, and Italy is truly wonderful, but so is Croatia. We do not travel nearly that often to beautiful places in Croatia or more specific Istria, because it's home, something too familiar, something we can visit anytime. And so it happens that we spend some time every summer climbing the Slovenian or Austrian Alps, but never climbed Croatian Velebit. 

That's why we decided to explore Istria bit by bit, to try out all the local specialties, to drive all the roads and to get to know the little places not so many people heard about.

All of them are just a day trip away, and this time we did a little tour around northern Istrian hilltop towns, which included Visnjan, Groznjan, Buje, and Motovun.

Each of them is known for something: Visnjan for its planetary and the events connected to it, Motovun for its film festival, Buje for its beer brewery, and Groznjan as the seat of musicians and artists. 

The thing that they have in common is obviously that they're located on the hilltops, they're all overlooking the Istrian countryside (there are some fantastic views!), and the beautiful local architecture: stone houses, narrow cobbled streets, baroque churches and loggias...

My personal favorite is Groznjan, because of its artsy vibe, loads of flowers, music that reaches out around the corner and beautifully restored stone houses. There are some chic bars, restaurants, and lovely art shops to spend your money in :). If we were tourists and if this was foreign to us, we would have been blown away! I suggest visiting in May or July, as it was just crowded enough to be lively but not overflowed with tourists. 

Motovun is both an amazing sight as seen from the river Mirna valley, and an amazing viewpoint of the hilly countryside and orange rooftops. There is a walk that circles around town upon the city walls, and from there you can admire the beautiful landscape of all four sides of the world (namely, Istria). The city loggia looks like a frame for the landscape picture behind it, and I can imagine it being the most photographed site in Motovun. And if you're a film enthusiast, there is a perky film festival held here every year in July.

The main square of Buje is a vast open space with the church od San Servolo, giant (50 meters high) bell tower, Venetian style palace, city hall, school and a pillory which once served for punishment and public humiliation, and now serves as a flag holder. The peculiar facade of San Servolo church is made out of brick with reused building material from ancient and medieval buildings called spolia built in it. If you look at the facade you will recognize them as the white stone parts popping out of the brick. For a bird view of the town and its surroundings, climb the bell tower (there is a grid protecting the tower from the pigeons so it's a bit difficult to take nice shots with your photography gear, but we took a few anyways :)).

As every Istrian hilltop town, Visnjan offers some great views from the square and the loggia in front of the neoclassical church of St Quiricus and Julietta. The cobbled streets are adorned with flowers and there is a nice arbored walk with chestnut trees giving much-needed shade to the main street. If you're into astronomy, Visnjan has a planetary that's doing a good job in education, especially of younger ones. There is also a pretty cool event called Astro Fest held every 21st of June, where people gather to welcome the summer solstice. The lectures on astronomy, ethno music, dance and games last until the first rays of sun appear.

After a long day of wandering we had to have lunch, and we wanted to try a restaurant near Buje which made it to the top in Istria on Tripadvisor, but thanks to our luck it was Wednesday, and they do not work Wednesdays (that is so typical of our trips!!). We found an alternative, easily, and enjoyed some tasty Istrian cheeses, olives and olive oil, pasta with truffles and ravioli with sea bass. I can understand why Istria is making its way to a foodie destination!

The best part of Istrian countryside day trips is that, if you're tired, if it's too hot, if you ate too much (fill the gap by personal preferences), you can always be at the seaside in less than an hour and take a swim in the beautiful Adriatic!

What are your thoughts on traveling close to home and what is the most beautiful place close to your home? I'd love to hear about it, and maybe get inspired for the next adventures (away from home). :)

A day in Pula

1. Pay a visit to Arena- Colosseum in Rome is the most popular Roman amphitheater, but Pula got its own magnificent version, the well preserved Arena. You can visit during daytime and admire centuries old architecture or even better, attend a concert or watch a movie under the stars with the sea as a background. Pretty awesome, isn’t it? 

2. Try out some fresh local products at the Market- the building was erected in 1903 as an architectonic wonder of glass and steel, a first of its kind in this area. Today, you can buy fresh fish and meat in the ground floor, have a cup of coffee on the upper floor and enjoy the colors and smells of local fruits and veggies under the shade of chestnut trees in front of the building. -Be sure to find typical Istrian specialties such as wild asparagus or truffles!

3. Have a drink on the main square called Forum- pick a terrace with the best view and admire the 23 centuries old Augustus temple and the medieval city hall. We usually sit in the bar called Cvajner as it has artsy vibe and a decent collection of beer and schnapps.

4. Take a walk on the Verudela peninsula- gifted with dense pine wood, beautiful waterfront and Havajska beach (Hawaiian beach- presumably thanks to the turquoise color of the sea), it’s a great place for a family day trip, morning run or relaxed evening walk. There is also the Aquarium Pula, a fun place to visit with kids (don’t expect anything big or fancy, but do expect  serious amount of cuteness as it is a shelter for injured sea turtles).

5. Find out which exhibition is at display in Sveta Srca- this former church is beautifully restored and adapted to exhibition space few years ago. It regularly hosts interesting exhibitions, from mind blowing contemporary installations to artifacts from ancient Istrian past.

6. Stroll under the “Golden gate”- the triumphal arch of the Sergi is a Roman monument from 1st century BC and was one of the city gates of ancient Pula. It is situated on the Portarata square where many concerts and events are being held in the summer months.

7. Make time for a day trip to Cape Kamenjak- this beautiful protected landscape has more than 30 bays with crystal clear water, stunning rocky waterfront, scented pine woods and a variety of plant and butterfly species. You can take a walk or a bicycle ride through its marked pathways, or sign up for surfing school in the Skoljic bay. At the end of a day, have a drink in the peculiar setting of Safari bar- a one of its kind, it will thrill your inner child!

8. Visit the Naval cemetery- if you’d like to have a little time for yourself in a peaceful ambient, this might be the perfect place, as the 19th century cemetery has a beautiful park with giant cypress trees and relaxing background music of singing birds in the treetops.

9. Taste the lstrian specialties at Trattoria Vodnjanka- this simple, family run restaurant serves delicious dishes made out of local ingredients in a way Istrian nonna would have cooked it! Regardless if you prefer meat or fish, everything they serve is just spot on!

10. Enjoy the view of the Lighting giants- when the night falls, on the hour every hour the cranes of the shipyard Uljanik lighten up in a colorful scheme. The project was made by an inovative designer from Pula, and this light show quickly became one of main tourist attractions! You'll get the best view from the boardwalk and the main dock.

Picture perfect cities: Rovinj

Rovinj is one of my favorite cities in the world. My connection with it dates back to my early years as my grandparents used to live there, and I used to spend my school holidays with them. I loved it then as much as I love it now, and some of my best childhood memories belong to that period.

The scenes are still vivid: sunny breakfasts on the terrace (with grandma's fresh tomatoes!), hours spent on the beach (and my first, unsuccessful attempts of diving), the excitement of attending the local feast called “Rovinjska noc” (Rovinj’s night), city walks with my mum (and inevitable visit to my favorite paper store), drinks in a bar on the rocks overlooking the sea…

The old part of the city is situated on the peninsula with a church on top which dominates the whole scene. Every angle of Rovinj is a beautiful picture on its own- colorful leaning houses, narrow streets with laundry hanging on the strings between the windows, lively fishing port and marine with luxurious yachts, beautiful sea view from the square in front of the church...

Few times a year we like to treat ourselves with a day trip to Rovinj, where we usually follow our favorite routine. Before taking a walk we grab something sweet (either ice cream or chocolates in the “Kraš” store). I like wandering through the narrow stone paved streets filled with workshops- some of them sell nice local souvenirs and jewelry, some of them are pure kitsch, but there’s something for everyone’s taste. We always climb up to St Euphemia church on the top of the city and enjoy the view and the sea breeze.

St Euphemia was a Christian martyr who lived in the city of Byzantium (nowadays Istanbul) in the 4. Century A.D.  where she was tortured and died from injuries under the emperor Diocletian (the same one that had built the famous Diocletians palace in Split!). According to local legend, the sarcophagus with her remains disappeared from Byzanthium on a stormy night, and landed on the shore of the city of Rovinj. Since then, St Euphemia is a patron saint of the city, and the church tower bears the sculpture of the Saint depicted with a wheel (one of the instruments of her torture).

Last time we visited Rovinj, the tower was opened to the public, so we climbed up the steep and wobbly wooden staircase. The bird view of the orange rooftops, pine woods in the background of the city, dark blue sea dotted with little white boats, crowded port, and the islets of St Katherine and St Andrew was worth a climb! 

Before we head to our favorite restaurant, we stop at the central beach. The water is clear, turquoise blue and when visited at night lightened by underwater lights which makes it a real treat both to the children and adults. If you like swimming at night, this is the perfect place!

The restaurant Veli Jože is situated in the street called Sv. Križa and is really easy to find. The restaurant got its name from a Croatian literary character- giant Veli Jože who lived near the city of Motovun. On summer days, we use to sit on the wooden banks on the terrace, eating seafood, enjoying local wine and a view of the street, the sea, or the passers-by. The interior of the restaurant is charming- overcrowded with pictures, photos, musical instruments, boat parts, antique objects, useless things, old Christmas decorations… It looks like someone poured out flea market all over the place!

For a dessert, we usually go to a bar on the "Trg Marsala Tita" square which serves tasty chocolate cake and which we discovered by accident once- on a cold, rainy day, looking for a place to warm up.

From there, we head to the boardwalk (in Croatian “riva”) to observe the boats, which is especially interesting in the summer months, when beautiful sailboats and yachts dock in the marine.

As the evening approaches, the “riva” becomes a hustling and bustling place, a central happening in the city, where tourists and locals come to see and be seen, the children to play and eat ice cream and the traders to sell day trips and knickknacks.

From Rovinj, you can make a day trip to the nearby islets of St Catherine and St Andrew- they are nice for bathing and soaking up the sun, but there are also concerts in open being held occasionally on St Andrew, which is a lovely experience.

The island of Sv Katarina in sunset

When visiting Croatia, don’t miss the opportunity to take a walk through Rovinj’s pebble streets and admire its colorful houses and beautiful seaviews- I’m sure you’ll love it. If you’ve already been to Rovinj or plan to visit, please share your thoughts in the comments below!